Marché aux Puces
The marvellous and famous flea market in Paris.
Also known as “Les Puces de Paris, Saint Ouen”, this flea market is the largest antiques market in the world and fifth most visited sight in France (after Euro-Disney, Notre Dame, the Louvre, and Eiffel Tower). Up to 180,000 people visit this magical place every weekend! The market feels more like a little village than a flea market, and are a must-visit sight in Paris!
However, the name “Les Puces” (the fleas) doesn’t do it justice. Not only does the flea market cover seven hectares of land, there are also about 1,700 merchants selling antiques and second-hand treasures in a vast network of alleyways, covered passages, warehouses, and stands every week from Friday to Monday. Les Puces actually consist of 12 distinct markets, all with their very own flair, focus and layout. Before we’ll introduce each of these markets, we’ll give you a better insight in to the history of the market as well as all the important logistics.
The History of the Paris Flea Market
It all started over 150 years ago, when ragpickers (or chiffoniers) – people who went through trash to find usable/sellable things – set up stalls between taverns, circuses and other establishments in the north of Paris opposite the 18th arrondissement. The official establishment of the Marchè aux Puces was in 1885, when the city of Saint Ouen paved the streets, cleaned up, and designated the area as an official market where a fee had to be paid to setup a stall.
In 1898, a second-hand dealer was officially regulated as someone who ”resells old furniture, jewellery, books, clothes, dishes and other objects and merchandise of chance”. During the Belle Époque, the bourgeoisie of Paris flocked to the markets and then soon after, the bohemian artists followed. It was en vogue for Parisians to go to Les Puces for a Sunday stroll – everyone loved the flair of the markets and searching for treasures.
In the 1920s more changes followed when the first closed market was build and the merchants moved into cabins where they setup shop permanently. In 1925, the “Biron market” was established and focused on the restoration of old objects. The next market was founded in 1938 by the Venetian merchant Amedeo Cesana and called “Jules Vallès Market”. More distinct markets followed over the next decade and the footprint of Les Puces grew to seven hectares. And finally, in 2001 the Marché aux Puces Saint-Ouen becomes one of the first sites in France to be classified as an Architectural, Urban and Landscape Heritage Protection Zone for its ambiance and atmosphere.
The Paris flea market today, has the largest concentration of Art dealers in the world, and hosts a multitude of craftsmen like cabinetmakers, glassmakers, bronziers, ceramic restorers, marble workers, chandeliers, painting restorers, and many more. These craftsmen play an integral part in preserving the know-how, and maintaining and carrying on the artistic heritage of France. Surprisingly, Les Puces also has a long history as a musical venue and of course, they inspired many artists over the decades.
Where is Les Puces and how to get there
Les Marché aux Puces is located in the city of Saint Ouen at the Porte de Clignancourt in the north of Paris.
The markets are open every weekend of the year (Friday to Monday), usually at the following times:
Friday: 08 a.m. – 12 p.m.
Saturday: 10 a.m. – 6 p.m.
Sunday: 10 a.m. – 6 p.m.
Monday: 11 a.m. – 5 p.m.
During August opening ours of the individual stalls may vary.
There are three ways to get to Les Puces:
- By Metro line 13, stop “Garibaldi”. This is our recommended way when using the Metro. Once you arrive at Garibaldi, cross the Church park, and make a right turn on to Rue des Rosiers and within a few hundred meters, you’ll arrive at the north end of Les Puces. (Close to the church park is an excellent little Crêperie – Marché ô Crêpes – try their cider with a galette.)
- By Metro Line 4, stop “Porte de Clignancourt”. We don’t recommend this option, even though it’s closer to the market, because you’ll have to cross an underpass and unofficial market (with counterfeit products) and lots of pickpockets. If you do use this option, cross the Boulevard des Maréchaux towards Saint-Ouen and go under the Périphérique (ring road) and towards Rue des Rosiers.
- With the bus 85 from the center of Paris straight to the heart of Les Puces either get off at “Marché aux Puces” or at “Paul Bert”.
What to know before visiting the Marché aux Puces
First and foremost, make sure you have at least half a day or more to visit this wonderland of antiques, vintage clothes, and other second-hand finds.
Some people wonder, if the flea market is safe to visit. Generally speaking yes, however, as in any environment with many people (tourists) there are pickpockets. Mostly in the surrounding areas but it won’t hurt not to carry all credit cards, passport, large amount of cash, etc., and hide your wallet. Also, use your cellphone cautiously – this applies to all Paris metros, train stations, busy areas – don’t just push it in your pocket or leave it out on a table.
Les Puces is not only a dream for collectors, casual bargain hunters, interior designers, stylists and antiques enthusiast but also for photographers. This is probably why this blog will turn into a photo essay quickly when we’ll introduce you to the markets. As some merchants sell for example original art, it is best to ask for permission from the shopkeeper before taking pictures.
When is the best time to visit
Early in the morning is by far the best time, as it can get really crowded in the afternoon, especially on a warm sunny day.
If the stalls are not setup yet or closed, just have a lovely coffee in one of the Cafés. Beware, lunch breaks are taken very seriously in France and while the merchants might eat in their shop, it is best to let them finish their lunch in peace and come back later.
Not all markets are open on Fridays and/or Mondays so check in advance of the particular market you’re interested in is open. Some stalls are only open by appointment.
Tips & Tricks
- While you shouldn’t carry large sums of cash, you should definitely carry some Euros as not all stalls accept credit cards and there are not many ATMs.
- We’re not going to lie, prices are relatively high at Les Puces, but you can still find a bargain – negotiating is the key. If you pay cash you’ll have more leverage when negotiating and it’s often possible to get 10-15% off.
- As antique furniture are a big part of the market, all necessary logistics are in place. Merchants have their go-to logistics partners and can arrange worldwide shipping for you. They can provide you with an estimate before you purchase a piece.
- The markets are vast so wear comfortable shoes! If you’re not there to purchase a 50k chandelier you can opt for casual comfortable clothes, too. Bear in mind, athleisure wear is considered gym clothes only in France (and most of Europe).
The 12 markets of Marché aux Puces
Without further a due, we’ll now introduce the 11 markets + streets with stalls, in no particular order. All markets are to the left and right of Rue des Rosiers and fan out. Some are covered markets, others are tiny alleyways that you can get lost in.
Talking about getting lost, while it’s good to know what to expect and maybe have a must-see-market, we actually recommend just strolling across the market without too much of a plan to just soak it all in. You could spend weeks there and not see everything, so don’t even try. Rather, come back again.
And not to worry, there are many restaurants and Cafés at every price point and cuisine for a break.
The official website of Les Puces offers a handy little brochure with map.
1. Marché Paul Bert Serpette
Friday 8 a.m. to 12 a.m.
Saturday 12 p.m. to 9 p.m.
Sunday 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Monday 10:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.
One of the most well known markets – thanks to Woody Allen’s Midnight in Paris – is the Marché Paul Bert Serpette. The market has been a favorite of celebrities and artists for a long time though.
Here you’ll find everything that let an interior design enthusiasts heart beat faster – the shops are sophisticated, styled, perfectly curated and staged, with well-known designer pieces as well as original works by little-known creators.
Everything from antique items to funky 1960s items can be found, be it art, furniture or decorative items. The market is often described as avant-garde with a special flair and daring antique dealers.
2. Vernaison Market
Saturday, Sunday & Monday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Vernaison Market is the historic birthplace of the Saint-Ouen flea markets, when it became the first organized market in 1920. Vernaison feels like a little village but it’s 9000 m2 and boasts 200 merchants.
It has the original spirit of the flea market with its alleyways, overgrown little shops and you can find everything from tableware, antiques, second-hand items and clothes, and vintage pieces. You could spend all day just browsing through the endless items in search for treasure. We found lovely antique chandelier crystals here and think they’re a great little gift or souvenir to take home.
3. Malassis Market
https://marche-malassis.business.site
Friday, Saturday & Sunday from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Monday 8:00 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Malassis Market stands out with its large dome and modern architecture. It was build in 1989 and is partly covered with two levels. Here you’ll find everything from Asian artefacts, Art Déco pieces, contemporary art, books, vintage fashion, decorative items from several centuries and glassware. There are 100 merchants and the market has a very particular flair. There are also themed shops selling pieces from a specific era or style.
4. L’Usine Market
The market is open on Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays from 7:00 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. and by appointment. Unlike other markets it is not open on weekends.
L’Usine is reserved for professionals – interior decorators and architects. 40 merchants are selling on 3600 m2 furniture, old and contemporary objects of interior architects and designers.
5. Le Passage Market
Thursday to Friday (by appointment) 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Saturday to Monday 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.
The youngest of the markets covers more than 1000 m2 and is a junction (passage) between 18 Rue Jules Vallès and 27 Rue Lécuyer. You’ll find furniture, vintage and antique curiosities, linens, rugs, as well as an exquisite selection of books – rare editions, classics and specialised books. A must visit is “At Sarah”, the largest and famous antique clothing store and a real institution. Stylists, designers and fashionistas flock to this store frequently.
6. L’Entrepôt Market
Saturday & Sunday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Monday 10:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.
This warehouse, which opened in the 90s, is specialised on “non-standard” items, particularly large items as they can be loaded on site. These pieces can be anything from gazebos, staircases to libraries and gates.
7. Antica Market
Saturday & Sunday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Monday 10:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.
Antica market is a very small market with about one dozen stand, but with a nice selection of objects.
8. Cambo Market
Saturday and Sunday from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Monday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Market or museum? This charming market, founded in 1970, is currently home to 20 merchants on two floors with a wide array of goods ranging from earthenware, antique fireplace mantels, musical instruments, to art and furniture from the 18th and 19th century.
9. Dauphine Market
Marché Dauphine is the largest covered market, housing 150 merchants on over 6000m². The market is at the heart of Les Puces and offers a mix of antiques, contemporary items, record stores, vintage fashion, pop culture items, and bookstores.
In the spirit of Baltard, the glass-roofed market hall was build in 1991. One of the highlights since 2013 is the Maison Futuro, by Matti Suuronen, which looks like an UFO.
10. Jules Vallès Market
Thursday and Friday from 7 a.m. to 12 p.m.
Saturday & Sunday from 9:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.
Monday 10:30 a.m. to 3:00 p.m.
One of the most original markets where you can discover a plethora of things, sold on traditional stands.
The 120 merchants are mostly vintage and second-hand dealers and you won’t find antique dealers here. Very early on Friday morning, many professionals come here to shop as well.
11. Biron Market
Saturday & Sunday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Monday 10:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.
Biron Market was established in 1925 and is located between Avenue Michelet, Rue des Rosiers and Rue Biron, and covers an area of more than 7500 m2 divided in two large parallel alleys. Biron Market, particularly Alley 1, is specialised on high-end pieces like original works of art, Art Nouveau items as well as furniture from the 18th and 19th century.
The 220 art dealers and merchants have run these galleries for generations and they’ve distinguished themselves from other markets.
12. Last but not least, the Flea Streets
Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Monday 10:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.
Also called the “Rue des Rues” is a mix between the covered markets and the traditional flea market.
While you’ll find everything from unusual objects, vintage clothes, old books, to military surplusses, there are also some amazing galleries.
Old flower pavilions give the street a very timeless flair. You’ll also find some Cafés in this area.
We’re hoping this blog gave you a good overview of the Marché aux Puces. In case you’d feel more comfortable exploring the market with a guide or a tour, we would be happy to organize this for you!
Also, if you’re looking for an expert to help you source specific items and assist with all the logistics, we have local partners to put you in touch with as well.
Hopefully, we were able to inspire you to visit the famous Marché aux Puces flea market and add it to your Paris itinerary!
If you need more tips for off-the-beaten-path activities in Paris, head over to our blog about the must-see museums & exhibitions.
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